Super Duper G400 MAX!!!!!!

[impact]

Maggi, how did you get the 'ooge fan to stay on the heatsink? Did you solder it there, or just used ungodly amount of superglue?

[ALBPM]

Hey Zork, be careful with those 33W Pelts.

It will take a fairly large heatsink/fan to remove the heat prduced by them. I just built a heatsink/fan test system using a 37W Pelt and it requires a CPU sized heatsink and fan to remove the heat produced by the Pelt. A 33W Pelt will produce as much heat as a P3. They will reach sub zero temps on the cold side if you are using an Alpha heatsink(PAL335t) and a 27 CFM 60mm fan.

If you don't remove the heat they can fry your G400 processor.

Paul

[Tronic]

Yeah, those really produce a lot of heat. I had 2x 80W peltiers on my processor. With hot side temp of 0°C the cold side went down to -20°C. That was with water.

30W is like a toy.. Not too dangerous, but WILL get a lot over 100°C if not cooled at all. Normal G400 heatsink with good fan might just be enough for it, but celeron-sized sink is a lot better.

Celeron produces apprx. 30W of heat.

30W peltier produces (on the hot side) apprx. 80W.

[Tronic]

And, when talking of cooling, I tried dry ice with my G400. That cools it down to apprx. -50°C.

There might be pics/story about it on my website, can't remember:
http://k7oc.cjb.net

[rylan]

Hey Tronic, how did you get your hot side of the twin 80W peltiers to 0C??? That would require a refridgerated cooling system through a water block or something of the sorts.

Also, a 30W peltier cannot product 80W of heat unless it violates the laws of conservation of energy :P
That 30W is power consumption, and since they aren't 100% efficient, it'll move less than 30W of heat across the junction, so the hot side will be lower than 30W heat output.
This also assumes the peltier is driven at full voltage.. most are 15V but are only connected to the 12V rail in a power supply, so you are already starting lower than its rated power. Hope that made sense

[Maggi]

Originally posted by impact:
Maggi, how did you get the 'ooge fan to stay on the heatsink? Did you solder it there, or just used ungodly amount of superglue?

the latter ...

but it was just a little drop on each fin of the HS and not nearly as much as you thought.



Cheese !
Maggi

[AJ]

wolfspell (or anyone else),

I'm curious to know if the pins in the orb lined up correctly with the hsf holes in the pcb. Did it obstruct any of the memory chips.

I'm thinking of OC'ing my vanilla G400 (which has the nice sgram chips) and want better cooling on the core and mem chips.

The copper Vid heatsink (another hsf I saw at 2CoolTek) seems too large (52x51mm), the blorb is 55mm max diam, but maybe that includes the pins. If the HSF is too large I won't be able to put heatsinks on the memory. My g400 OC's to 150Mhz core without cooling (but I don't want to leave it there) and I'd like to get higher if I can.

I'm trying to avoid having to buy an new vid card with so many goods ones coming out next year (and maybe, just maybe, the g800 whatever, will be out next summer).

Thanks,

-AJ



[This message has been edited by AJ (edited 29 November 2000).]

[AJ]

Nevermind that last post. OC'ing my G400 from 125Mhz (core) to 150Mhz inclines me to think that I won't be able to OC it enough to matter. I was able to go from 640X480x16 (~44 fps ave) to 800X600X16 (~42 fps ave) in UT (D3D, PIII 733), but there was almost no change in Tribes (OGL).

Bottom line, if I want higher resolutions and or greater bit depths, I need a new card.
I may just pick up a Voodoo5 (especially since 3dfx seems to be improving the drivers and I hear that the 2D is decent) and put the g400 in my wife's machine. The Radeon seems too flaky under W2k and the GF2 GTS' 2D suXors.

It was worth a shot.

-AJ

[wolfspell]

Originally posted by AJ:
wolfspell (or anyone else),

I'm curious to know if the pins in the orb lined up correctly with the hsf holes in the pcb. Did it obstruct any of the memory chips.

The pins align perfectly. I think some of the memory chips were slightly obstructed.

[Tronic]

Originally posted by rylan:
Hey Tronic, how did you get your hot side of the twin 80W peltiers to 0C??? That would require a refridgerated cooling system through a water block or something of the sorts.


Also, a 30W peltier cannot product 80W of heat unless it violates the laws of conservation of energy :P
That 30W is power consumption, and since they aren't 100% efficient, it'll move less than 30W of heat across the junction, so the hot side will be lower than 30W heat output.
This also assumes the peltier is driven at full voltage.. most are 15V but are only connected to the 12V rail in a power supply, so you are already starting lower than its rated power. Hope that made sense

[Tronic]

Err.. Looks like that my reply disappeared...

-For 0°C I needed 50l barrel with water/glykol(anti-ice) mix at -20°C. The barrel was outside my house, so I only had to put some snow into it from time to time, or if it was cold enough, I didn't have to do anything.

-Electric power of 30W peltier is much more than 30W. 30W is the power taken from cold side. Phot is 30W+Pelectric.

-12V is really close to 16V when it comes to actual cooling. 16V produces MUCH more heat, and the cold side temp could even go up.

-Ripple voltage is much more important than actual voltage. If you're using a car battery, your ripple is 0%. That's usually not the case, because 80W peltier uses all juice in car battery in couple of hours. Battery chargers usually have a 100% ripple, which is really bad for peltier; it gets hot, but doesn't transfer much heat. PC's power has very small ripple (if it has enough juice), so it is a good choice for 16V peltiers.

[Tronic]

Err.. Looks like that my reply disappeared...

-For 0°C I needed 50l barrel with water/glykol(anti-ice) mix at -20°C. The barrel was outside my house, so I only had to put some snow into it from time to time, or if it was cold enough, I didn't have to do anything.

-Electric power of 30W peltier is much more than 30W. 30W is the power taken from cold side. Phot is 30W+Pelectric.

-12V is really close to 16V when it comes to actual cooling. 16V produces MUCH more heat, and the cold side temp could even go up.

-Ripple voltage is much more important than actual voltage. If you're using a car battery, your ripple is 0%. That's usually not the case, because 80W peltier uses all juice in car battery in couple of hours. Battery chargers usually have a 100% ripple, which is really bad for peltier; it gets hot, but doesn't transfer much heat. PC's power has very small ripple (if it has enough juice), so it is a good choice for 16V peltiers.

[rylan]

Damn, a barrel of anti-freeze mixture. Pretty sweet