CD/DVD disk printing

[cuddles]

Picked up a Canon R210 this morning, with the disk printing gear.
What is preferable?
1. Print after burning or
2. Print before burning.

Thanks

[gt40]

I don't think it really matters, but you could save some ink if you burned a coaster by printing after.

[Kris1]

Yup.

I've been using Epson 900Photo and R300 printers for stuff like this : it makes no difference in terms of burning/compatibility problems.

The only extra tip I can give you is I use a spray can of transparant car paint varnish to make the prints more resistant to water drops ect. Two very short bursts of it is more than enough, and as added bonus the DVD will get a shiny effect on the printout.

[Patrick]

Originally posted by Kris1

I use a spray can of transparant car paint varnish...

Geez, I'd be afraid of doing that. Are you sure there won't be a problem eventually with the varnish interacting (in a negative fashion) with the plastic of the disc?

[Kris1]

:-)

I understand what you're saying. The thought occured to me too, but I presume that if the printable layer on these DVD's is supposed to withstand direct contact with ink, it shouldn't buckle because of the varnish either. Since the printout itself isn't altered by the stuff, I again presume the stuff "doesn't go that deep".

I've been doing it (for myself) since as long as I print directly on DVD, and so far I haven't seen any trace of the layer becoming unstable or somehow react with either the printsurface or the protective layer.

But bottom line : no, I won't prentend I'm 100% this wouldn't negativly affect the lifetime of a DVD. The're too many things to take in account for (chemical properties of the used varnish, production quality of the protection layer on the DVD itself) to make any bold statements about that.

Your point is definitly valid and deserves serious considerations to anyone producing commerical DVD's.

Take Care,
Kris

[smitty]

Hi Kris . you said you use "transparant car paint varnish"
varnish is not a common term in automotive paint treatments and I am wondering specifically what you use. is it " clear coat" or an enamel sealer etc. ?
thanks
smitty

[Brian Ellis]

I'd be very wary about using any solvent-based lacquer on polycarbonate, especially in the form of a spray, where you can't control overspray onto the unprotected hub and rim. I could foresee the possibility of stress cracking occurring. I think an aqueous-based one, silk-screened on, may be safer.

This leads one towards wondering what solvent-system is used in inks for commercial DVDs/CDs. Anyone know? If I had to guess, I think they would likely be solventless reactive UV-curing inks.

[cuddles]

Thanks everybody.
Guess I'll burn then print but not too confident about the overcoat.
If Brian's comments turn up something I might give it a go.

Thanks again.