Unlocking time!

[Marshmallowman]

how about reseating the CPU, and perhaps the atx power plug.

8kta3 have a bit of a problem with some power supplies (long traces on mobo), what kind voltage do you get on the 5volt rail?

aahhh....and what do you have the FSB jumper set to?,(must be 133)

mp detection setting?(clutching at straws)

if I was buying a mobo now, I would go with a sis 745 of some variety.

[Technoid]

Originally posted by Wombat
I was thinking about that. It might happen, but I hear that stuff isn't the easiest to apply, and it's expensive for a 1-shot deal. I keep thinking, "I work in a processor design lab, we've got to have SOMETHING around here." I've ruled out solder, unless I can find that heatless kind around here.

You can say that again!!!

I've tested it and its a pain in the rear to apply and then it has a tendency to ruin in a couple of weeks!

[Alfie]

Auto supply places sell a non conductive lacquer that's used for Alternators,it comes in paint or spray.
If you carefully mask off the L1 bridges,this may prove the best coating to use(sure beats Krazy glue!)
Once set,using conductive paint to connect the dots may prove the best option.
Soldering is possible,but the wires to connect them would have to be coated and you need the steadiness of a cadavor!
Radio Shack sells a paste solder with a very low melting point and strong bond when cooled.
The method I used for Tbirds and Durons was to use a conductive pen,I'd fill the gap,let it dry and then rub with alcohol,repeated the process 3-5 times the paint acted as a filler in the gap and kept building up(similar to filling a hole with spackle and sanding afterwards.
The alcohol in this case was the sandpaper.
The end result was perfectly connected bridges,whether this method would work on the XP,I don't know.

[Greebe]

First off, there is so much BS going on here and recommendations by those who are only suggesting what they read and have no first hand experience with that it's scary.

I'd suggest virtually any MB with the SiS 745 chipset. Sure it has a tad bit lower bechmark #'s, but is extremely stable, has much greater PCI bus bandwidth and works a peach without any of the VIA headache or limitations. I'd reccommend the MSI 745 Ultra, Epox the Asus A7S333 or...

continued on another PC (have links to more info over there)

[Wombat]

Thanks for the suggestion Alfie. I already found my insulator/gap-filler: 99cent bottle of clear nail polish. I'll check out those paints though.

[Greebe]

... Gigabyte GA-7VRX of which Dr. Mordrid has.

here is one link on howto unlock

http://www.chillblast.com/guides/XPmult.asp

WARNING!!!: do not scratch the chip surface as noted here. What he suggests todo works fine with the old brown ceramic chip, but not with the green type. If you do you will most undoubtedly damage the cpu and or prevent yourself from making it run at X core speed/ Y fsb setting or function altogether by removing the pcb overcoat and exposing the bare surface beneath effectively shorting the connection!!!

another link on which do what...

http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/xp_painting.html

Let me add that it is essential to ensure that you insulate the laser cuts so that when the dots are electrically connected does not short out in the gap. if you do the chip will not acknoledge what has been done as possibly prevent you from unlocking it forever and also leaving you stuck on a multiplier which you do not want!

Auto defroster conductive repair paint or Silver conductive paint (I have the latter... http://www.chemtronics.com/catalog/c...cts&category=7 ) works great... but ensure it is thin enough beforehand. Test to see on an unused area of the chip to see how well it applies. To thick and you will short multiple connections together. If this happens remove with appropriate solvent and try again. Taking care each time with a steady hand.

Additionally this is not for beginners and you must take your time. have the proper tools and materials ready beforehand.

[Greebe]

I would like to add that I didn't use silver conductive pen itself, but opened and used a single paint brush fiber to apply. the pen itself will leave far to great amount of paint and would be too wide anyway.

[Alfie]

Wombat,
It's been reported acetone may have a detramental effect on the material the cpu is made of,so be sure to check the nail polish to see if it does have acetone and try it on a corner first.

[Greebe]

I have a can of SIG thinner (P# SD-146) which is used for thinning Dope (a type of paint used in RC aircraft). It's comprised of Toluene, MEK, MIBK and Acetone. It's quite safe for use on these "green" chip carrier pcb's... tho I wouldn't suggest soaking it overnight!

[xortam]

MEK ... yeck!!! I used to work with that stuff in my youth (building satellites ). That stuff will give you nasty headaches and probably is killing several brain cells. Hmmmm .. I may be onto something.

[The PIT]

Is one of the reasons why there has been a reduction AMD processors already unlocked due to the fact is a fiddly process and takes up too much time for the shops to sell at a profit?
Or is that not so many people are bothered about overclocking via the multiplier these days and just hike the fsb instead?

[Greebe]

Geez xortam, didn't you read the MSDS paper that explicitly states not to huff it?!

[xortam]

This was almost 30 years ago and no, we didn't receive documentation on its use. I did use vapor hoods when using toluene and MEK though. The 200 proof alcohol (until you exposed it to air) that we used for cleaning the inside of the substrates (aluminized mylar) was a whole different issue though. I heard the janitors were stealing it for screw drivers.

[Wombat]

Just a little update. It seems that the 1800+ was DOA. I set up my MSI 745 Ultra, and it wouldn't work in there either. RMAed it back to newegg, and have my Duron running at 850 in the MSI in the meantime.

[KvHagedorn]

Sorry to hear that, Rob. Hope the next one is good. Let us all know what kind of FSB you are able to get out of that board!