Watercooling!

[mutz]

and this.

The Fujiyama Cooler Master IHC-L71, guess I paid around 60 Euro. This one is for 478's. They also have them for AMDs.

http://www.coolermaster.com

According to my sources here, the difference between the really best is very little. This one would be one of the best. He said the difference between this a Kalman, he has both, is negligable. I can't say. I'm just happy with this one.

I used Cooler Master Premium Silver, that'll cost you around 20 Euro. I regard it as insurance.

Any ideas for the GPU and Northbridge?

[Technoid]

Okay,
Came home, Raised the FSB from 133 to 140 on the P3.... 848 MHz instead of 800
Booted up....
Idle temp 2 degrees lower !?!
Oh, yeah! "The Arctic Silver 3" effect!
(also earlier known as "The Arctic Silver 2 effect")

Ful load after 20 min temp : 43 (wich means that it rised 2 degree but Its much better than the aluminum WB, i bet it would have gone well past 50 )

[az]

Mutz, when you said "silent heatpipe" and didn't mention coolermaster in the first place, I hoped you used a pure heatpipe cooler, without fan...

AZ

[Greebe]

No he's refering to CoolerMaster's silent series with the "L" designation.


BTW I just got off the phone with CoolerMaster to find out what the max wattage their heatpipe HS can handle and it's ~75-80 watts. Reason for asking this is that in a single phase heatpipe design there is a max power limit. This occurs when you exceed the HP's capacity to pump heat when you do causes thermal runaway. Now mutz has nothing to worry about with his P4 but with those of use that are OCing XP's to the extreme, like mine which is currently dumping out ~100watts of heat their current products are not designed for such extreme demands and can cause failure of your cpu.

BTW they do have a larger one that is in the works that should be able to handle ~100 watt heat source coming soon

[mutz]

Thanks for the gumpf, Greebe. Didn't know that.

AZ, sorry to disappoint you, but I felt really passive cooling might be asking for it, even with mild OC. Right now both CPU and mobo are averaging in the low to mid 30Cs where I like it, running the P4 2.4 @2.6, which is mild OC, but more than plenty snappy in performance. I'm not much interested in running boast numbers. With the original Intel HSF it was ranging 41-52C, and noisy fan.

Right now I hear the Northbridge fan, and perhaps the P fan. The now 6 case fans are a not unpleasant, not loud shoosh. Don't forget the case is lined with NoiseBlocker and the PSU is a BlackNoise.

If you want no fan CPU cooling, I understand Zalman might be the way to go.

Anybody found a better HSF for the Parhelia yet?

[Wombat]

The Jaguar? Is that what it's called? Seems to be working well for some.

[mutz]

Wombat, I can't find anything on a "Jaguar" GPU HSF. Do you know any more, or does anybody else?

[Wombat]

It was ALPBM that modded his. Ask him, or find the thread in Matrox Hardware from a month or two ago.

[mutz]

I had searched MURC and found nothing but Jaguar car and Valey of the Jaguar game. Searched the web too, but checking through forty-two thousand hits on the car, the animal and trade names was a bit much.

But thanks! I'll catch that cat yet!

[az]

Isn't the search function a bit crippled as of late?

AZ

[Greebe]

[Greebe]

Only because the database is still hosed.... Dan!

[Sasq]

umm err yeah must fix that...

[Ali]

Opps, been away busy for a bit.

Does that sound proofing black stuff on your case work? Ive got a roll of closed cell foam glued to the side of my case now, and it doenst seem to do anything. Might not be the right stuff, but I had it lying around.

About the de-ionised water. It might still conduct electricity if it leaked and picked up dust etc, but I would expect my PC to shut down before that happened, as the BIOS shuts it down if the CPU gets to 70C (It works too, when I was hooking up my fan rehostats (sp?) I accedently disconnected the relay for my water pump. The computer booted and got all the way to the memory check before it shut itself down. Thats another benefit of having a copper WB)!

Ali

[mutz]

Hi Ali, yes the black stuff works. It's called Noiseblocker from Blacknoise. It's not just foam, but layers starting with a heavy bituminous layer that deadens sympathetic vibrations and anything else from getting out of the box, while the outer foam structure breaks up harmonics. I lined top, bottom, sides and part of the front. The kit also includes panels with just the bituminous layer for places where the foam would be too thick. The panels stick like crazy, so it's good to get it right the first time!

Before, since my case is aluminum, the sides were acting like flat panel speakers. I doubt that the aluminum dissipated that much heat, so now that is snugly insulated, I've upped the cooling while cutting the noise. About all I hear now are the fans at the back.