Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Burner problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Burner problem

    I've been struggling with my Yamaha CRW4416S lately. I went through quite a bit HW/SW debugging with it a few months ago only to find that the problem was a build-up of dust on the lens. I figured out that problem by using a lens cleaner as a last resort. I used an Allsop CD lens cleaner which is a CD with embedded nylon brushes. I hadn't had any problems with it since until I tried to burn some CD-Rs last week. The CD-R seemed to burn O.K. (using Adaptec Easy CD Creator) until the very end when it stated that the device reported errors (no specifics). Tried a couple CD-Rs and a CD-RW with the same result. Tried reading some previously recorded CD-RWs and the reader didn't detect the disk on all but one of the packet written disks. It can read an audio CD-RW, previously recorded CD-Rs, and normal CDs. I used a pressurized air blaster this time (forgot about the lens cleaner) but when it failed I went back to using the lens cleaner. No difference. I've determined that the problem is the drive itself as it can't detect the presence of these disks (amber light, versus green) even w/o the PC being powered on or being connected to the SCSI bus. I flashed the drive but it didn't help. I think I may have fouled the lens with the air blaster but its odd about it not detecting just packet CD-RWs (except for one). Question is ... 1) does the lens fouling sound like a likely explanation and 2) is this something I can easily get at for a more direct cleaning? Anyone have an idea what shops charge for such a cleaning?

    ------------------
    • ASUS P2B-S Rev 1.03, PIII 450MHz, Award ACPI BIOS v1010, 128 MB RAM
    • MYLEX FlashPoint RAID+ (BIOS v2.02N) running RAID 0 on two 9 GB IBM DDRS 39130D Disks
    • Diamond MX300 sound card, now with MX25 S/PDIF output
    • Matrox Millennium G400 Max Dual Head - English
    • NEC 5FG monitor
    • Logitech MouseMan Wheel
    • YAMAHA CRW4416S and NEC Multispin 3x CDs
    • 3Com Fast EtherLink XL 10/100Mb TX NIC (3C905B-TX)
    • US Robotics 56K Voice FaxModem Pro
    • Pioneer DVD-303S SCSI
    • Note--All SCSI devices (except disk drives on RAID) are connected to onboard AIC7890 U2W SCSI
    • Mainly running Win98 v4.10.1998
    <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

  • #2
    xortam, the problem your seeing now may still be the lens. Blasting with air and the Allsop cleaner do work, but are limited. The problem lies with it being dirty on the lens side facing the laser, not the cd side. So now you have to ask yourself... do I feel upto using a Qtip to clean it? (dampen it with the Allsop cleanr first, ie not wet)
    "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

    "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

    Comment


    • #3
      Ah, so the laser side of the lens is exposed to dust as well (I though it might be sealed). You think I should be able to get at it with a long swab through the tray opening (not opening up the case)? Not sure what you mean by "dampen it with the Allsop cleanr first, ie not wet". The Allsop cleaner I have is simply the nylon bristle embedded CD (dry system, no fluid). I think I have some optical lens cleaner lying around here somewhere.
      <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

      Comment


      • #4
        Ahhh, didn't know if you had the wet or dry type... Use a 35mm lens cleaning fluid for cameras (~$2). The lens isn't sealed as it needs to be free floating to focus on the disk. This mechanism is quite delicate, but not so fragile that a Qtip would damage it if done gently. The drive will have to be opened up completely to do this.
        "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

        "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

        Comment


        • #5
          Bah, I just use those windex quick wipe thingys

          Comment


          • #6
            I would do the same Matt, except the lenses are made of plastic and scratch ultra easy.
            "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

            "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

            Comment


            • #7
              Looked inside the tray opening and I couldn't see anything but the spindle. Figured I'd have to crack this baby open ... sigh. So I take it that you guys have performed this surgery before?! I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'll probably be back asking where to order the parts I just broke or how to get them back together.
              <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

              Comment


              • #8
                If I were you I'd just send the drive back to Yamaha for repairs.

                I know I did that when my Yamaha 6416S gradually stopped accepting any writable CDs. There was a time when it would only accept Sony CD-R's and nothing else. After a while it finally refused to write those as well.. Thankfully it was still under warranty.

                Comment


                • #9
                  xortam, I've done this many times, it may sound quite intimidating but it's really not that hard (or awfully risky).

                  On the flipside, fds might be right (but at a MUCH greater cost).

                  Lets see, CDRW's are cheap these days and from my experience with repair service, they'll charge you 30-100% new (retail) cost to fix anything regardless how trivial.
                  "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                  "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've had this drive for over a year (since 3/99) so its out of warranty. We have a local Yamaha service center but 1) I need to archive files off of my PC now , 2) as Greebe say's, I expect the service fee to be relatively expensive and 3) this is a maintenance task that I better learn anyway. I have the burner in a 4-bay external box that I decided I should cover when not in use: This should solve my dust problem (new windows would help too). Checked my camera bag and I can't find my lens cleaning fluid so off to the store with me. I'm a bit concerned that it might damage the plastic lens but cleaning fluid has to be mild to protect coated glass lenses. I plan on using torn lens paper rather than a cotton swab as that should be gentler on the lens. I'll see if service folks at the shop have any recommendations.
                    <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Xortam... I have tried both (35mm/video/astronomy nut on the side) most people look at you odd when asked to get lens tissues so that's why it was ommited. You are right, they are better and much easier to use, especially for this task. Tho I've never had a problem with Qtips scratching.
                      "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                      "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Astronomy eh? Then you probably know what a 'first-surface' mirror is then? Been *carefully* using cotton swabs (sealed, clean ones) and Windex on them for years with no problems. A Laser lens should be no sweat...plus Ive done the exact same thing.

                        Thing is...most Laser diode assys are sealed on the 'laser-to-lens' side. You can only get to the 'lens-to-CD' side.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          As I said before, I assumed the laser side of the lens was sealed. I'll find out what the situation is really soon. I just pulled out the drive (it was a dust bowl in that case) and I'll open 'er up right after I finish breakfast. Remember EchoWars, we're dealing with a plastic lens so a little extra caution with the lens tissue is warranted.
                          <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I've dissasembled many CD type laser assemblies before (but not limited to) and some may have a cover over it preventing you from access, but that is only until it's removed... and none of them are "sealed".

                            A friend of mine borrowed my telescope once after it had been in storage for a year (we had moved). Even sealed in plastic that darn dust made it's way in (very pesky stuff), so he decided to clean the FSM's. Clean, yeah right, you mean scratched them all to heck! Luckily I had a spare (and better) secondary mirror, but the main he had to replaced... nothing worse than looking at the sky with a "Starburst" filter attached! LOL

                            All is good between us and small (8") mirrors are reletively cheap.
                            "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                            "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Haven't been able to get too far into this Yamaha drive. I removed the bottom plate. Removed two PCB retaining screws. Can't seem to remove the front plate. See that it has a couple spring clips on the bottom side but its still grabbing on the sides of the drive. It seems I need to be remove to the front plate to lift the PCB, but I don't know how. Should I also disconnect the three ribbon connectors and LED connector from the PCB? Hope you worked on a Yamaha Greebe.
                              <TABLE BGCOLOR=Red><TR><TD><Font-weight="+1"><font COLOR=Black>The world just changed, Sep. 11, 2001</font></Font-weight></TR></TD></TABLE>

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X