Woo hoo got myself a new toy......

[GT98]

After posting my question about computer speakers a couple weeks ago someone suggested getting the Klipsch ProMedia v2-400 setup. I was first kinda thrown off by the price but I found a set of them @ onvia.com for $199. I got them eariler this week and installed the demo for MW4 and damn I felt like I was inside a Mechwarrior with the way this thing kicks out some serious bass! The only major downside to these speakers is that they have a tendence to piss my parents off with all that bass coming out. I guess its time to get myself my own place so I can crank these things up .


Scott

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Abit BH6 with a Celeron 2-566@877mhz,256mb RAM,G400 MAX,SB Live!, Optiquest V95 19in montor, Asus 40x CD-ROM, Aopen 5x DVD-ROM,HP9110i 8x4x32 CD-RW,SupraMax 56k modem,WinME on Western Digital 30GB drive

[DentyCracker]

Welcome to the club GT98. Just don't fiddle with the volume control too much as after a while it will give staticky sounds when turning it up and down at low volumes. Kickass speakers. My mom just has to live with it. I try not to piss her off too often

[Bohrn]

The sound is _way_ better in the full ver of Mech4. Great fun. And congrats on the new addition to the family.

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AsusP3B-F,iCel466, 256mgsPC133,G40032megSH, Diamond MX300,13.5gigs of HD's,52X CDrom,WinME, PD 5.41 w/ 6.10ICD,Altec Lansing ATP3Subwoofer,
Envision 17",Terrayon Cable modem w/D-Link nic,1 grey cat,1 black cat & 1 calico

[Greebe]

If you were using a real subwoofer you would throughly enjoy the Redeemer in UT. I have a dual 12" custom built sub powered by a 400 watt RMS amp and my neighbours will attest to the fact it sounds like a mini nuke going off!

[GT98]

Talking about subwoofers I was reading an article on the Richest of the Rich in Silion Valley and their houses. The guy who used to run Orcail has the worlds largest subwoofer in the world in his house. The damn thing is made out of an indoor pool that was in the house. The dude that did it has to use a ladder to get into it! Damn I hate to see what that thing does...bet you it rattles the whole damn house!

Scott

[Jammrock]

GT98,

Good choice! I got me a pair just a few weeks ago and I love them! I just wish Klipsch would get together with Cambridge so they could release a Dolby Digital version (Klipsch does the speakers, Cambridge does the low cost Dolby Digital).

DentyCracker,

The crackling you experience is caused by dust contamination in the volume knob. The technical name of it eludes me right now. Go to Radio Shack (or equivelant) and pick up some electronic spray cleaner and lubricant for about $5.

Unplug the speakers and spray into the volume adjustment knobs. Then twist the knobs from max to min a few times to get them clean and lubricated. Let sit for a few minutes and clean off the outside residue.

Plug them back in a voila!

Jammrock

[GT98]

Jammrock,

I know creative is has out the Sblive 5.1, which I believes that supports DTS decoding. Just have to figure out how to add a center channel speaker to the Klipschs and you'll be set. But then again what games support DTS decoding?

Scott

[Jammrock]

I actually worked out the details on how to do that once. I requires cable splicing, but it is possible. I decided to sell my old 5.1 cambridge system instead of splicing it up. If you want the details, email me and I'll tell you how to do it.

Jammrock

[Greebe]

Scott, no wonder they have some much siesmic activity out that way!
(by the way Happy belated Birthday!)

C.K. glad I could oblige!

WFI subwoofers (speakers designed to produce sound only below 100Hz) sold that are of a bandpass or otherwise ported design (including transmission line designs) all have a F3 cutoff of at least 12dB/oct and have no dampening below cutoff. What this means is that once sound produced below the bass ports' fundemental frequency will be out of phase and have a cancelling effect.
In normal home speaker design this will normally be somewhere between 35 and 45Hz. Below this point you won't hear the subbass specifically because the majority of music doesn't have much acoustic energy in it (and it makes for a cheaper design).
Powered computer speakers are normally even higher than this cutoff and sit in the range of 50-100Hz cutoff. Not suprising, digital sound effects in games don't limit the low end responce like that of high quality music and hense, if your sub isn't designed to handle it, correspondingly you won't hear it!


ALBPM, I finally found that dual isobarik tube sub design of mine!

[This message has been edited by Greebe (edited 15 December 2000).]

[MultimediaMan]

Greebe:

Careful on relying on a Bandpass Subwoofer to be it's own lowpass filter. There are many upper order harmonics to worry about if you use a port that is too small (In the real world: In other words a port that keeps your maximum port velocity ABOVE 5% of the speed of sound. They sound plain nasty at times). Bandpass boxes tend to mask distortion as well: sometimes your only warning of driver failure is when they stop making sound. :-( Your best option is to use an electronic lowpass filter to eliminate upper order harmonics: it also frees you to set the passband range to a more rational one without having to resort to small or ridiculously long ports of a very large diameter.

I use an old program called LSP Cadlite. What do you use?

[Greebe]

M^3, I've been designing speakers and highend Pro and audiophile equipment for some 20+ years (use to work here)

I design my own passive and active crossovers, normally from scratch so filtering has never been an issue.

[Greebe]

LSP is quite nice (have used it in the past), LSP Lab also good (unless that's the same as you're using and LEAP and a few others (+ some custom proggies I wrote way back in my early days, when none of these things existed.

[fds]

The Live! 5.1 series cannot decode DTS. It understands Dolby Digital only.

It can pass the DTS signal through the SPDIF OUT though if you have decoding equipment.

Win9x/Me only.