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Ducted Orb Cooling
Due to alot of SCSI stuff and all them other boards that generate heat, my inside case temp is 82-84F despite numerous fans. SO my Chrome Orb on the 900MHz T'bird had all it could do to reject heat.
The Arctic Silver helped alot, cutting a couple of degrees off but it would still reach 48-50C+ when overclocked to 1000MHz and running 3D Mark 2000. (Until I get a BIOS update past UL that allows me to boot from SCSI that has higher multipliers, I can't get much higher).
I resorted to ducting ambient room air into the center of the orb. Nothing new here, HP has been cooling its Vectra desktop CPU's like this for years. But it works great.
I call this "Ducted Orb Cooling."
I used 2" PVC pipe and elbows from central vacumn plumbing. This PVC is much thinner wall than regular plumbing PVC, easier to work with and not as bulky. The inside elbow is just about touching the fins of the orb.
I drilled a hole in side cover to mate with the duct. I wanted to go straight out, but the hole would have been in the middle of the case finger ridges, hard to cover nicely. I will order a grille or grille with filter to cover the hole.
At idle now, room temp at 72F, I am at 29MB/32CPU, (84/87F). Running 3D mark benchmarks at 1 GHz, temp is 30MB/46CPU. The temp will then drop a degree about every 20 seconds at rest. So check your inside case temps and if high, get creative with ducting. Will make any cooler more effective.
If I don't cover the hole, I have options to draw cooler air from the floor in front of the PC, instead of drawing on the warm air being exhausted out the rear.
And for really serious overclocking efforts in fall and winter......
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ABIT KT7 non-RAID * 900MHz Athlon T'bird * 128MB Crucial 7E PC/133 RAM * Two Cheetah LVD's * Barracuda UW * DiamondMAX IDE * Plextor Ultraplex 40max/Plexwriter 12/4/32 * Hitachi IDE DVD * 2940U2W * SB Live * 3Com 905B-TX NIC * 3Com Courier V. Ext. * Hollywood + * Win 98SE, Win 2000 *
[This message has been edited by SCompRacer (edited 10 January 2001).]
The Arctic Silver helped alot, cutting a couple of degrees off but it would still reach 48-50C+ when overclocked to 1000MHz and running 3D Mark 2000. (Until I get a BIOS update past UL that allows me to boot from SCSI that has higher multipliers, I can't get much higher).
I resorted to ducting ambient room air into the center of the orb. Nothing new here, HP has been cooling its Vectra desktop CPU's like this for years. But it works great.
I call this "Ducted Orb Cooling."
I used 2" PVC pipe and elbows from central vacumn plumbing. This PVC is much thinner wall than regular plumbing PVC, easier to work with and not as bulky. The inside elbow is just about touching the fins of the orb.
I drilled a hole in side cover to mate with the duct. I wanted to go straight out, but the hole would have been in the middle of the case finger ridges, hard to cover nicely. I will order a grille or grille with filter to cover the hole.
At idle now, room temp at 72F, I am at 29MB/32CPU, (84/87F). Running 3D mark benchmarks at 1 GHz, temp is 30MB/46CPU. The temp will then drop a degree about every 20 seconds at rest. So check your inside case temps and if high, get creative with ducting. Will make any cooler more effective.
If I don't cover the hole, I have options to draw cooler air from the floor in front of the PC, instead of drawing on the warm air being exhausted out the rear.
And for really serious overclocking efforts in fall and winter......
------------------
ABIT KT7 non-RAID * 900MHz Athlon T'bird * 128MB Crucial 7E PC/133 RAM * Two Cheetah LVD's * Barracuda UW * DiamondMAX IDE * Plextor Ultraplex 40max/Plexwriter 12/4/32 * Hitachi IDE DVD * 2940U2W * SB Live * 3Com 905B-TX NIC * 3Com Courier V. Ext. * Hollywood + * Win 98SE, Win 2000 *
[This message has been edited by SCompRacer (edited 10 January 2001).]
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