reposition subwoofer

[VJ]

Ok, this is going to sound like a stupid question, but I have problems finding it on google.

I am thinking of moving my subwoofer from one side of the room to the other. At the moment it is positioned in front, but I would like to move it to the right of the sofa. In the wall, I have 2x cat5 cable, and I have 2x speaker cable that are unused and connect the location of the amplifier with the location where I want the subwoofer. The subwoofer is powered, so it takes an audio in (single cinch connection).

Now the stupid question: Can I use the speaker cable as audio cable?
Alternatives would be to pull another cable in the wall (this is possible, there is a pipe, but it gives other problems), or use some audio over ethernet extender solution. In either case, if it is not possible with the speaker cable, I'll leave the subwoofer where it is, and rearrange things slightly differently.

[Umfriend]

I don't see why not. It's all copper, no? I'd expect the speaker cable to be rather thick but, unless the capacitative capacity is relatively large, I don't see an issue.

Greebe would know.

[Greebe]

Ok, this is going to sound like a stupid question, but I have problems finding it on google.

I am thinking of moving my subwoofer from one side of the room to the other. At the moment it is positioned in front, but I would like to move it to the right of the sofa. In the wall, I have 2x cat5 cable, and I have 2x speaker cable that are unused and connect the location of the amplifier with the location where I want the subwoofer. The subwoofer is powered, so it takes an audio in (single cinch connection).

Now the stupid question: Can I use the speaker cable as audio cable?
Alternatives would be to pull another cable in the wall (this is possible, there is a pipe, but it gives other problems), or use some audio over ethernet extender solution. In either case, if it is not possible with the speaker cable, I'll leave the subwoofer where it is, and rearrange things slightly differently.

Yes, but you really don't want to due to zero isolation/sheilding or noise rejection. Hummmm is what you would hear.

To find the sweet spot some rules govern this...

Low frequency "sub bass" frequency response is dominated by room modes. There is no such thing as "room gain" should it enter your mind. Only exists in automobiles with their wedge shaped interiors. Van's and the like are like small rooms. The primary modes correspond to height width and depth of the room also the 3 tangental and oblique, a total of 7 majors and minors. Sim with REW Room Simulator or Dr. Earl Geddes room simulator. While both of these have limitations gives an idea of what is the cause. You cannot EQ out a room null. Only peaks can be reduced with Eq. Only solution to fixing the nulls is either fixing the room or by using multiple subs. Three is considered minimum and one should be at least no more than 1/3 the distance from the ceiling. Please read up on Geddes multisub approach. I've been doing it this way since the '80's.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

Dr. Geddes software can be found on his website www.gedlee.com

Also you will find that it is important to keep the timing correct so the use of digital delay on each is required. For the best sound don't boost bass. It creates an additional group delay lag. Never try to over power a room null, to do would require at least 20dB more power than you currently have on tap. If you have 200watts per channel now it would take 20,000watts more minimum. Not only is this rediculous to attempt, but you would be imprisoned and deaf

[VJ]

Ok, so the short answer is: no... as it would give hum? (the length is approx. 4 metres)

I've noticed those analog audio over cat5/6 extenders are cheaper than I thought they were. I thought they were $100+, but they can be found in the $10-$30 range. Something like that to bring the signal to the subwoofer would be a better option then?

The amplifier I use has Audyssey room correction function, and should optimize delays, volume and equalizer for each speaker individually. It actually works quite well: the distances to the speakers looks correct, and the sound appears natural to me.

[Greebe]

Jorg, cat5/6 cable extender ends are transformer coupled and should work ok. By using balun transformers to couple the signal by breaking the ground (eg added isolation) and use of cat 5/6 which have twisted pairs. The twisted pair rejects common mode noise like hum. It's kind of similar to pro audio where you have tip, ring and sleeve. Tip and ring are transformer or push pull driven with a separate ground and is yet another way to "skin a cat" so to speak.

Seems to be good solution for your problem. It may not couple very low frequencies well (would like to see freq measurements), but is cheap enough to try

[VJ]

The more I've been thinking about it, the more I feel like changing the furniture.
Currently, my equipment is on an open metal/glass shelf, but it just looks messy. And the subwoofer has to stand in front of it, which looks out of place. This is in quite a visible point in the living room, so it has to change.

I'm desiging a cabinet that I think would be very suitable: a few open shelfs (for amplifier, htpc), space below the bottom shelf to put the subwoofer and some closed storage for the more messy things (usb hub, chargers, cables, cd's, ...). It should be possible to have the panels made and put it together myself (there are plenty of companies here that make custom panels), I just need to get the design right.

[Umfriend]

I seem to remember that you would show us some pics when the renovation is done. What's your ETA on that? ;-)

[Greebe]

I seem to remember that you would show us some pics when the renovation is done. What's your ETA on that? ;-)

Yeah Jorg what's up with that?!


(you weren't kidding ROTFLMAO )

[VJ]

We were swamped with work in December and January (girlfriend is now for 2 months abroad), and the place looked a bit like a warzone. I'm now making order and will then clean. Photos will follow then; ETA 3-4 weeks.