Kuala Lumpur & Singapore

[lecter]

I got back from my little trip down south today...I have to say, it was an interesting experience, but I'd still choose to live in Bangkok, even though both places have a higher standard of living, look cleaner, etc.

On the night train from KL to Singapore I was woken up at 3:30AM by the conductor, urging all passengers to disembark, avec luggage. I looked out the window and saw that we were in the middle of nowhere, but complied...A train had derailed on the track so they provided us with buses, which took us to the next station, where the Singapore-KL train was also stuck. Passengers were swapped and both trains went back from whence they came. It was a bit unnerving though, seeing everyone bleary-eyed, confused and walking around in the field at night reminded me of the Holocaust movies I've seen...at least I knew Malaysia is a civilized country, if this would have happened in Cambodia (not that I'd ever consider going there), I would have had serious doubts about the future integrity of me balls

Oh, also, KL has to be the most pedestrian-unfriendly city I've ever seen...can you imagine a timed 5-second stoplight for crossing a wide boulevard??? And let's just say that for the bike drivers, even 5 seconds is asking too much, they were already whizzing back and forth between people after 2 seconds

Singapore was the precise opposite in terms of traffic, hats off to them, even though they do enforce their way of life with a whole lot of banners all over the place, including this in the public toilets:

[Brian Ellis]

Having been to both Malaysia and S'pore many tens of times, I love both, but in different ways. However, S'pore is rather too sterile and a big concrete jungle. KL is nearly as bad but has the merit of being surrounded by some of the oldest primary tropical rain forest in the world.

Singapore is perhaps interesting as being a harmonious melting pot of Muslim Malays, Buddhist Chinese, Hindi Indians and Christian Europeans, with all being equal, and all on a small island, a few kilometres in any direction. If only all the world was like this, but it started as an almost extreme discipline imposed from the top. Throwing down a cigarette end in the street is worth a fine of half a month's salary for the first offence, as is not flushing a public toilet (hence Lecter's pic). But it has worked.

Malaysia is quite different and is also a melting pot but quite different. It includes many native tribes, some still living in the jungle, much as their forebears did a century before (although head-hunting has stopped!). It is very prominently Muslim Malay, except in the State of Penang, which is largely Buddhist Chinese. In E. Malaysia, there are still a number of animist tribes, some of which have become Christian. This has given a different "feel" to the country, but the Malays are the friendliest, kindest people, quite different from Arab Muslims, although most are very devout. Probably, I have spent, over the years, more than 12 months in these two countries.

As for Thailand, as Lecter says, Bangkok is not so pleasant a city, but the people are wonderful. I much prefer Chiang Mai, away from the lowlands.

The food is great (and different) in all three countries!

[lecter]

Oh, I don't know about S'Pore being a concrete jungle, I really enjoyed the greenery they have throughout the city...and the climate, though pretty damp is much more acceptable to me than the excessive heat of KL or Bangkok.

Chiang Mai is very nice, but after visiting it in 94 and 2003, I felt a marked difference for the worse...traffic is becoming a problem there as well, with all the smoggy annoyances it brings along. It's a damn shame, that place is a great haven while still preserving enough civilization to make me happy.

The people of S'Pore left me with a bitter taste...as much as I hate the often fake smilies of the locals here, it's a bit much to the other extreme there. It's weird to see people walk without looking left or right, just each in their own universe...

Taking things a bit further, out of the 3 "good" models for future society that I see-Scandinavian, Japanese and Singaporese, the Japanese one seems to offer the best balance to suit economical needs as well as the perversions of the human soul

[lecter]

Oh, and speaking of food...I don't know how many day-tourists to Singapore go for Mexican (the restaurant did look rather empty...)

[Brian Ellis]

They were all at the Satay Club, along the river front from your bowl of chile con carne.

Yes, there is some greenery in S'pore and many oases, such as the botanical gardens and East Coast. I hate Sentosa, though! But I'm always feeling oppressed by the concrete canyons and the commercialism of S'pore. KL is slightly more human as a large city, perhaps because it is more spread out.

I enjoy Chiang Mai, but I stay in one of the resorts some 5 or 8 km from the city. Expensive, but well worth it, because it's away from the hub-bub and smells. I'll post a photo or two tomorrow.

[rylan]

I thought singapore was really nice. Its interesting to see how most of the city underground is a giant connected shopping mall. Some really good unique food too. I could go for some more pepper crab, and the fruit is sooooo awesome.

[Belwarrior]

People!!! send me a PM when you guys come down to Singapore I stay here, for a change at least you got someone u know to hang out with (only in the evenings on weekdays though) .. <-- see my location

But i have to agree, it is a concrete jungle, everyone in a rat race where even donations become very routine.. but i am getting used to it... but have to agree with Brian E, Sentosa has dropped off the list for me.. You can still find some nice places here and there though..

If anyone visits malaysia, you should at least spend a day in Penang Island and Malacca.

[Brian Ellis]

I like Singapore zoo, one of the best in the world, especially with the "night safari" they added about 8 or 9 years ago. It is quite open and most of the animals are not confined in cages. Pity they have to do their animal shows, though. My biggest beef about the zoo is that they have a senior citizens' entry fee, but only for residents of the island, not for visitors

I agree about Penang (have spent weeks there!). We used to stay at the Rasa Sayang at Batu Ferringhi, but their value for money and personal service has dropped drastically since they built their extensions. The Holiday Inn, 300 m along the front, offers essentially the same for 1/3 the money. I used to go to Penang for weekends when I was doing jobs at Ipoh. Malacca is the one place I've never been to (nor Kota Kinabalu (sp?)). Some of the other islands are also very good, if slightly less accessible.

The extreme NE of Malaysia is quite interesting as being the most rigidly Muslim part, but Sarawak is the most exotic place for tourism, that I know. The "standard" tourist trip is a boat ride some 3 - 4 hours up a river from the estuary into the real jungle and staying the night in an Iban longhouse (kitted out for tourists, of course!). The Iban were one of the two tribes of Dyak headhunters. Rumour has it that the last heads they chopped were Japanese during the 39-45 war. Certainly, you can still see the skulls in rope nets where they can receive the smoke from the cooking fire (I have been in non-tourist Iban longhouses, as well, and the heads are not there for show; they are animistically revered as having come from brave warriors of enemy tribes).

[lecter]

Penang is indeed tempting for a future trip...gotta get more people organized though, it's not a place worth going to alone.

BTW, the rates that AirAsia offers for destinations in Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Macau are simply amazing...my return ticket Bangkok-KL cost 65 USD (with all taxes included). I plan to use their services for a dash to Macau in November, starting November 1st they'll sell a bunch of return tickets Bangkok-Macau @ 55$!