Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car Oil change frequency discussion

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by Evildead666 View Post
    Is the blower permanently on or can it be disengaged from the cabin?

    4-runner looks nice, must be extremely reliable too, it is a Toyota after all
    Blower as in Super Charger ...I'm assuming..??

    The S/C replaces the intake Plenum and adds an extra belt to the engine. You also need to do some fuel Mods in order to avoid pinging at high RPMs which will damage the engine.

    We installed a larger fuel pump and the URD 7th injector kit to give it more fuel. We also added cooler spark plugs 2 steps cooler. Then there is the electronics kit to tune the Air to Fuel ratio.
    And an external Transmission cooler for extra protection.

    So, it's not a simple task but can be reversed.
    "Never interfere with the enemy when he is in the process of destroying himself"

    Comment


    • #17
      OK, so not really possible then
      What does the Horsepower go up to with/without ?
      PC-1 Fractal Design Arc Mini R2, 3800X, Asus B450M-PRO mATX, 2x8GB B-die@3800C16, AMD Vega64, Seasonic 850W Gold, Black Ice Nemesis/Laing DDC/EKWB 240 Loop (VRM>CPU>GPU), Noctua Fans.
      Nas : i3/itx/2x4GB/8x4TB BTRFS/Raid6 (7 + Hotspare) Xpenology
      +++ : FSP Nano 800VA (Pi's+switch) + 1600VA (PC-1+Nas)

      Comment


      • #18
        ~186 without and ~250-265 with..

        Here's the link to URD = Underdog Racing Development.

        http://www.urdusa.com/p1260518512/UR...duct_info.html

        The guy who started the company is a member of several Toyota Forums that I belong to.
        He researched the TRD Super Charger which Toyota has manufactured by Magnuson and
        found inadequacies with the design which could lead to engine damage.
        He went head to head with Toyota over their design and ended up starting his own company....
        Last edited by ALBPM; 18 December 2011, 21:42.
        "Never interfere with the enemy when he is in the process of destroying himself"

        Comment


        • #19
          Depends on the car, and also depends on the oil used. If it's synthetic, usually it lasts over 10,000km

          Comment


          • #20
            Just a guess, but US petrol, as Jeremy Clarkson said, is "limp wristed fairy liquid." Most Americans run on the cheapest 87 octane fuel they can find which is probably much less clean than the heavily regulated more environmentally friendly "jungle juice" Europeans use.

            So the oil in American cars likely get dirtier faster in the name of cheap petrol prices. Thus the shorter time between changes. Though Toyota now uses 0w-20 in all their cars and recommends every 5000 miles, versus the traditional 3000 miles.
            “Inside every sane person there’s a madman struggling to get out”
            –The Light Fantastic, Terry Pratchett

            Comment


            • #21
              Service manual for my Polo 1.4 16V 100hp engine recommends 98 octanes. Here there's only 95 and 100 octane fuel and price difference is less than 2 cents a liter.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by UtwigMU View Post
                Service manual for my Polo 1.4 16V 100hp engine recommends 98 octanes. Here there's only 95 and 100 octane fuel and price difference is less than 2 cents a liter.
                US has between 87 and 93 octane. There is "racing" fuel that reaches 96 to 100 octane. The price difference between 87 and 89 is about $0.10-$0.20 a gallon. Between 87 and 91/93 is about $0.30-$0.50 a gallon.

                The 100 octane fuel in my area is about double the cost of 87 octane. Right now 87 octane is about $3/gal, 100 octane is $7/gal.
                “Inside every sane person there’s a madman struggling to get out”
                –The Light Fantastic, Terry Pratchett

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by UtwigMU View Post
                  Service manual for my Polo 1.4 16V 100hp engine recommends 98 octanes. Here there's only 95 and 100 octane fuel and price difference is less than 2 cents a liter.
                  Interesting... On my 75 hp Polo, they recommend 95 octanes. It specifically mentions that 98 is also fine, but that there is no difference in engine performance.

                  But are you sure about the 100 octanes? Because that is avgas used in general aviation (in Europe). For cars, we have 95 and 98 octanes, and the avgas is a lot more expensive than the 98 octanes.
                  pixar
                  Dream as if you'll live forever. Live as if you'll die tomorrow. (James Dean)

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Octane numbers bear no relation to the energy obtainable from a fuel. They relate to the anti-knocking qualities, in turn related to the compression ratio and cylinder head design. If you have an engine with a low compression ratio, rated at, say, 150 kW at 3500 rpm when using 90 octane fuel, guess what the power will be if you put in 100 octane fuel? Yup! That's right! 150 kW at 3500 rpm, near enough. You get zero extra performance by upping the octane number, you only burn money, on condition that the engine does not knock (auto-ignition). Furthermore, the US has a different method of determining octane numbers and consistently gives figures lower than the rest of the world by about 5. A US octane rating of, say, 90 would be 95 in the rest of the world.

                    The energy given by a given fuel is a function of the average carbon and hydrogen atoms in the molecules. These are strictly similar, no matter the octane number: the only difference between, say, 95 RON and 100 RON is in the additives which comprise <2% of the fuel mass, so the chemical energy bound in the mixture is essentially identical. What can change is that summer fuel is slightly heavier than winter fuel to make it less volatile and may give a small extra power (probably <1 or 2%) under given conditions. It is doubtful whether the ordinary user in a commercial car would notice the difference.

                    Like many of his statements, Jeremy Clarkson's "limp wrist fuel" remark is just utter nonsense. He has zero technical knowledge of what goes on in a car and his popularity, as the journalist that he is, lies in making outrageous and highly entertaining comments and certainly not in his technical prowess.
                    Brian (the devil incarnate)

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by VJ View Post
                      Interesting... On my 75 hp Polo, they recommend 95 octanes. It specifically mentions that 98 is also fine, but that there is no difference in engine performance.

                      But are you sure about the 100 octanes? Because that is avgas used in general aviation (in Europe). For cars, we have 95 and 98 octanes, and the avgas is a lot more expensive than the 98 octanes.
                      Aviation fuel is chemically different from car fuel and uses a lighter fraction from the distillation column. This is necessary because it has to work at altitudes where the ambient temperature is low. In fact, the low weight of the fuel gives marginally less power in a low compression ratio engine, but aero engines frequently have CRs of 14:1, thus the need for a high RON. The high CR more than compensates for the lower chemical energy of the fuel.
                      Brian (the devil incarnate)

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        In Slovenia you can get only 95 and 100, they probably rebranded 98 as 100. Just had a punctured right front tire today. Since the previous owner fit some custom wheels, the reserve wheel didn't fit. Fortunately my insurance covers free towing to anywhere, so I had it towed to garage not far from home which opens tomorrow at 7.

                        Lately I'm also driving Audi A6 avant (caravan) quattro (4WD) 3.0 V6 TDI (turbo diesel) with 235hp. It's automatic with flappy paddle gearbox. Very nice, very fast though very long, 20cm wider than my car. Consumes only 8.8 liters (26.7mpg).
                        Last edited by UtwigMU; 20 December 2011, 11:48.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I got all 4 new Dunlop SP Winter Response (best in wet on ADAC tests) tyres and the car feels much better (bought it with 3-4 seasons old middrange winter tyres). No longer can i spin the wheels in 2nd gear and cornering is much better.

                          I changed all 4 brake disks and pads few months ago, so the car handles much better.

                          The rims are a bit bent but they will have to wait till spring (here you have mandatory winter tyres between November and March) when I'll get new 15" wheels and new summer tyres and then I can have the 14" Artec alloy wheels straightened up.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I'm looking at either original BBS wheels for GTI model (350-600 on ebay) or Platin P61 (98 a piece new)
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by UtwigMU; 21 December 2011, 17:52.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by UtwigMU View Post
                              I'm looking at either original BBS wheels for GTI model (350-600 on ebay) or Platin P61 (98 a piece new)
                              What size?

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                15" with 195x45 tyres.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X