it gets really hot under heavy load (70C). but it has not crashed so far, i will go back to 141 or 140 though if it does.
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MSI 745 o/c help
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You seriously need to invest in a better cooler... those temps are insane and most assuredly will shorten it's life expectency"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss
"Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain
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the cooler is not that bad (and looks great), it is the fan that needs to run faster (at ~7V now), but it's just to loud at 12V!
one app crashed in the meanwhile (not sure if cpu or mem) so i lowered to 140Mhz, temp is ~67C at full now. probably because i could lower the vcore to 1.775 now.
i will also slap a HUGE heatsink on the GF3 and try to run it with no fan.no matrox, no matroxusers.
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and at that rate you'll end up with a dead cpu with a great looking POS heatsink attached to it.
Pull that fan off and put a good high output 92mm fan on and run that @7vdc... should still be quiet and run significantly cooler. Take some cardboard or craft foam (etc) and make a duct to connect them... shoot better yet would be todo the same with a 120mm fan.
Or as Novdid said... (see sig)"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss
"Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain
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thop: Ahh! I see...
I just bunged a Zalman 6000Cu (92mm fan) onto an Athlon 1.3 - I don't overclock, but boy is it quieter than the horrid aluminium HS and 6 or 7k rpm fan that was on there before.
Now I can hear the Parhelia... and now am thinking that it is too loud.
Then the PSU...
This could get expensive!DM says: Crunch with Matrox Users@ClimatePrediction.net
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one of the problems the 5100 suffers from is it's straight through air flow design. This minimizes the actual air contact with the fins. What you need to add is some vortex generators. One way would be to add couple thin circular strips of whatever material (even paper would suffice) and tack them on the base. Another way of getting the same result would be to bend each fin in a zigzap pattern the same way on each so that each would cause the air to be so to speak be bounced off of one another.
In addition to the above also try flipping the fan around so that it is sucking and not blowing.
Also adding at least one more case fan to increase airflow would be helpful. I wouldn't be against adding a blow port on the case side and exhausting the heated air (via duct) outside the case. If doing this I'd suggest using at least a 92mm high output fan and wire it up with a SPDT switch so you can toggle between 7vdc for normal quiet operation and 12vdc for when gaming, really hot days use."Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss
"Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain
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Yup, Thermalright AX7 w/Delta SHE 80mm running through a rheobus...
I can boot into Windows at 1.97ghz@2.1v, but I can't run any 3D apps without locking up....1.92ghz@2.15v is the highest I can go stable, but I tend to run it at 1.9ghz@2v more so I can run the Delta at more sane volumes....Let us return to the moon, to stay!!!
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