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arctic-cooling vga silencer?

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  • #16
    The die isn't that big Maggster, it's the heatspreadder that makes it look like you can't use less. To mount you could use frag tape or AS epoxy to attach or if you have the tools make an adapter plate that'll match upto the mounting holes. But don't drill holes into the PCB... the underlying traces would be cut.

    The real factor to consider is the pumping capacity of that miniscule heatpipe. It simply can't handle the power (heat) of the P chip for it to run properly.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

    "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

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    • #17
      Search for my thread about fitting a waterblock to a P somewhere here - IIRC has some info on the actual die size vs the heatspreader size (thanks to Greebe of couse I think)...

      With heatpipes you have a max heat transfer capability above which you get "thermal overrun" - basically you need to be careful. But if someone is willing to try and see with a Zalman VGA silencer C or whatever then a definitive answer to this question is always nice!
      DM says: Crunch with Matrox Users@ClimatePrediction.net

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      • #18
        Originally posted by GNEP
        Search for my thread about fitting a waterblock to a P somewhere here - IIRC has some info on the actual die size vs the heatspreader size (thanks to Greebe of couse I think)...


        I've made measurements (can't remember what they are off the top of me head anymore tho), but the core dimensions came from ALBPM when he removed him heatspeader from a dead Parhelia and made some measurements...

        With heatpipes you have a max heat transfer capability above which you get "thermal overrun" - basically you need to be careful. But if someone is willing to try and see with a Zalman VGA silencer C or whatever then a definitive answer to this question is always nice!
        I querried Zalman with what their VGA cooler is rated for some eons back and they stated 15w... this is only the HP and not the entire assembly tho, which actually makes it greater. They would not answer exactly what it's max power dissipation was however (geesh).

        Parhelia bounces around 30-34 watts when stressed.

        ALBPM uses a 1U all copper HS on his and it works a peach, think he paid $15 for it at the time
        "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

        "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

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        • #19
          Here's the thread:



          (some pics on the last page)
          DM says: Crunch with Matrox Users@ClimatePrediction.net

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Greebe
            The die isn't that big Maggster, it's the heatspreadder that makes it look like you can't use less. To mount you could use frag tape or AS epoxy to attach or if you have the tools make an adapter plate that'll match upto the mounting holes. But don't drill holes into the PCB... the underlying traces would be cut.

            The real factor to consider is the pumping capacity of that miniscule heatpipe. It simply can't handle the power (heat) of the P chip for it to run properly.

            thanx for correcting, but I doubt that using frag tape or epoxy would be sufficient to hold that big mofo of an Artic Cooler in the long run, at least you would have to make up some clamping a long the PCB, so that the HS won't tilt or something like that.
            Despite my nickname causing confusion, I am not female ...

            ASRock Fatal1ty X79 Professional
            Intel Core i7-3930K@4.3GHz
            be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2
            4x 8GB G.Skill TridentX PC3-19200U@CR1
            2x MSI N670GTX PE OC (SLI)
            OCZ Vertex 4 256GB
            4x2TB Seagate Barracuda Green 5900.3 (2x4TB RAID0)
            Super Flower Golden Green Modular 800W
            Nanoxia Deep Silence 1
            LG BH10LS38
            LG DM2752D 27" 3D

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Maggi
              thanx for correcting, but I doubt that using frag tape or epoxy would be sufficient to hold that big mofo of an Artic Cooler in the long run, at least you would have to make up some clamping a long the PCB, so that the HS won't tilt or something like that.
              I have Arctic Silver epoxy and guarantee it'll hold. An AS applications engineer told me that you don't want to use unless you never wish it to be removed. The only application where it won't work is extreme heat (>350f) or where water will contact it.

              If it is used would be best to clamp it while curing to prevent it from hardening thick. the thinner the better.
              "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

              "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

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              • #22
                I see, but still, I wouldn't feel really comfortable with that solution.

                so go ahead and call me a chicken ...

                Despite my nickname causing confusion, I am not female ...

                ASRock Fatal1ty X79 Professional
                Intel Core i7-3930K@4.3GHz
                be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2
                4x 8GB G.Skill TridentX PC3-19200U@CR1
                2x MSI N670GTX PE OC (SLI)
                OCZ Vertex 4 256GB
                4x2TB Seagate Barracuda Green 5900.3 (2x4TB RAID0)
                Super Flower Golden Green Modular 800W
                Nanoxia Deep Silence 1
                LG BH10LS38
                LG DM2752D 27" 3D

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                • #23
                  I'll leave that to Byock
                  "Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." -- Dr. Seuss

                  "Always do good. It will gratify some and astonish the rest." ~Mark Twain

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                  • #24
                    the new Zalman HP80-D i think... seems to cool better then the previous version.
                    Main Machine: Intel Q6600@3.33, Abit IP-35 E, 4 x Geil 2048MB PC2-6400-CL4, Asus Geforce 8800GTS 512MB@700/2100, 150GB WD Raptor, Highpoint RR2640, 3x Seagate LP 1.5TB (RAID5), NEC-3500 DVD+/-R(W), Antec SLK3700BQE case, BeQuiet! DarkPower Pro 530W

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                    • #25
                      You want silent try the new Aerocool Fanless VGA Heatpipe Cooler. I've ordered 2 of them, one for each of my Parhelias. No garantee's it will fit but will let you guys know. I should have it tomorrow.

                      2 x Opteron 270 • Tyan K8WE • 8Gb Kingston HyperX • 2 x BFG 7900GTX SLI • Matrox TH2G • Areca SATA RAID • 4 x WD RaptorX RAID6 • Creative X-FI Elite Pro • Klipsch 5.1 Ultra • PC P&C 1KW PSU • 3 x Samsung 19" LCD • The System is Fully Water Cooled

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                      • #26
                        It feets but doesnt despate enough heat Do not buy this product. Here is a pic ... thats all its good for.

                        2 x Opteron 270 • Tyan K8WE • 8Gb Kingston HyperX • 2 x BFG 7900GTX SLI • Matrox TH2G • Areca SATA RAID • 4 x WD RaptorX RAID6 • Creative X-FI Elite Pro • Klipsch 5.1 Ultra • PC P&C 1KW PSU • 3 x Samsung 19" LCD • The System is Fully Water Cooled

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                        • #27
                          Hi,

                          @RUS007
                          I bought Aerocool VM-101 before I read your post here. It works great with my Parhelia 4x. No artifacts, no BSODs...

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