The house project

[Pneumatic]

Originally posted by Jammrock
Very nice house!! I love the Cave especially Basements are required by law for houses here in KC, afaik. For tornadoes and the like.

Question for you, since you do construction and I'm sure have researched this a lot...What type of insulation are you using?

Jammrock

We have looked at several types of insulation and haven't really decided yet. Once I get a little farther along on the budget I will know.

The stuff I like the most is the stuff they spray on the wall as a liquid and it expands into styro-foam like stuff. It seals all of the cracks and from what I have been told makes the house very tight. It's also a great sound barrier. The problem with it is that it's about 3 times the cost of really good normal insulation and if you ever have to drop a line down a wall you can forget it. :-/

[Jammrock]

That's the same stuff I like the best. It starts with an 'E' but I can never remember the name. I've got a brochure at home somewhere about it.

if you ever have to drop a line down a wall you can forget it. :-/

That's what condiuts are for

Jammrock

[RedRed]

If its the same stuff I am thinking off, you should be able to cut it fine with a good slabing knife. They use it for calking wooden boats these days too......

It is really good stuff, BUT, there was a bit of a concern here about the curing chemical being given off for years after it is installed....


RedRed

[RedRed]

BTW, I am so wildy jelous that it really sticks in my throat.....

RedRed

[KvHagedorn]

I would just frame the exterior walls with 2x6s and use (thicker) standard batt insulation. Use real plywood sheathing on the full face of the exterior. You can use that canned foam to seal any gaps.. that's an easy do it yourself job. 2x6 framing on exterior walls gives a lot of added structural strength and lets you run more things through it without compromising that strength, too. It is more expensive, but not as much more as you would think, and it's definitely worth it.

BTW, don't try to use insulation for soundproofing. It doesn't work. The very highest frequencies might be attenuated a bit more, but mid to low frequencies only see a drop of about a decibel as opposed to no insulation. If you really want to soundproof, staggered studs or double studs are the best ways. Adding layers of specialized wallboard helps as well, but you will still have the tympanic effect of the sound being transmitted from sheetrock through stud to sheetrock again. There are other ways to hang the second layer of wallboard that helps alleviate this problem, though.

[Pneumatic]

Originally posted by KvHagedorn
I would just frame the exterior walls with 2x6s and use (thicker) standard batt insulation. Use real plywood sheathing on the full face of the exterior. You can use that canned foam to seal any gaps.. that's an easy do it yourself job. 2x6 framing on exterior walls gives a lot of added structural strength and lets you run more things through it without compromising that strength, too. It is more expensive, but not as much more as you would think, and it's definitely worth it.

BTW, don't try to use insulation for soundproofing. It doesn't work. The very highest frequencies might be attenuated a bit more, but mid to low frequencies only see a drop of about a decibel as opposed to no insulation. If you really want to soundproof, staggered studs or double studs are the best ways. Adding layers of specialized wallboard helps as well, but you will still have the tympanic effect of the sound being transmitted from sheetrock through stud to sheetrock again. There are other ways to hang the second layer of wallboard that helps alleviate this problem, though.

2X6's are what the plans call for on the exterior walls exactly for the reasons you mentioned.

As for sound proofing, that's not a huge concern since all of the bedrooms are separated from other rooms by one thing or another (by design) and the cave is in a corner of it's own (also by design ).

The main value of the foam is the fact that it seals every crack thus preventing ANY air flow from switch plates and outlets. I still don't know if it justifies the costs yet. I am researching right now to see how much it costs to have done here.

[Jon P. Inghram]

If you do end up sealing the house really tight, be sure to get a heat recovery ventilator/air to air heat exchanger. It'll provide fresh air in the house while maintaining the air temperature.