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Kooldino fear the power of my 133t new wheels!
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would be nice here in the summer, if the other motorists would only respect your rights on the road. In the winter that thing looks straight out deadly, at least hereWe have enough youth - What we need is a fountain of smart!
i7-920, 6GB DDR3-1600, HD4870X2, Dell 27" LCD
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Originally posted by cjolleyOr the 1/8th , or even the 1/4"
On the other hand it's just about small enough to ride in my Lexus as a spare.
Inside your lexus or strapped to the back? I'd love to have one to put around the city, at 100mpg, damn, I'd use it all the time, except in the winter. Wonder if they sell spiked tires for scooters?Titanium is the new bling!
(you heard from me first!)
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Originally posted by ZokesProHehe, yeah well I'm sure you didn't buy it for it's top speed and acceleration.
Inside your lexus or strapped to the back? I'd love to have one to put around the city, at 100mpg, damn, I'd use it all the time, except in the winter. Wonder if they sell spiked tires for scooters?
Knock yourself out
from http://www.icebike.com/Equipment/tires.htm
The following method is recommended by the Edmonton Bicycle Commuters Society:This is what you need to make your very own studded tire:
- One tire. You need a tire with knobs big enough to support the stud. the stud as explained further down, has to be on the
- 50 (approx.) Robertson head #8 by 1/2" sheet metal screws (the square head, you'll thank me for this tip) for mountain bike tires (26inch) or #8 by 3/8 inch for hybrid tires (700c)
- Liner for each tire. This can be made by cutting the beads off an old tire, cutting out the valve and slitting along the inside of an inner tube or just buying a Mr. Tuffy tire liner.
- Baby powder.
- One sharp awl. (or a 1/8" drill bit)
Instructions
- Count the knobs and evenly spread out the 25 screws for each side.
- Punch holes, from the outside of the tire, into the designated knobs. You can drill the hole, however, drilling tends to tear the fabric and thus weakens the tire. Caution you don't need a million screws in there! Too many screws just slows you down.
- Use Robertson bit in the drill to drive the screws in the tire from the inside.
- Put liner inside tire and make sure it covers the screw heads
- Put a generous dusting of baby powder between the liner and the tube.
- Mount tire on the rim (ouch! watch out for the points!)
- Inflate to maximum pressure. Put the wheel on the bike (mind the points). Spin the wheel to make sure that the studs don't catch on anything.
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You only need to stud the front tire to keep upright; however, if you stud the back tire as well, it's even better. One caveat is that these tires are only suitable for winter conditions. The difference between one studded front and no studded tires in phenomenal. When the bike is travelling straight the studs shouldn't be hitting the road too hard; otherwise, they will just wear out too soon. Don't worry, when the tire slips just a bit the studs will bite in. You rarely notice the slight side to side movement.
You don't need to stud the middle knobs since you only need the added traction when you are turning. The studs should touch the road enough to allow sufficient braking. The studs in the middle knobs wear out very fast and soon become useless anyway.
Stainless steel screws will last much longer, but also cost about 3 times as much. You can change screws as they wear out, your tire can survive several sets of studs.
Chuck
秋音的爸爸
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Originally posted by cjolleyI had posted a pic of the 150 because it was the right color and I didn't look close at the model.
Mine is a 50cc, but silver.
100 mpgAthlon XP-64/3200, 1gb PC3200, 512mb Radeon X1950Pro AGP, Dell 2005fwp, Logitech G5, IBM model M.
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