What ya all been waiting for. The COOLEST Parhelia H²0 block

[Taliska]

Wow that all got a little too heavy!

Just like to say - it looks really nice!

I wish I had the time, patience and skill, but I don't, so BladeRunner, you get my respect.

Taliska

[Wombat]

Originally posted by GNEP
And actually (though I may be talking utter BS here ), the uneven surface on the inside of the channels due to it being hand-milled may actually work in your favour, producing more turbulent flow at the copper/water interface and increasing heat transfer. But then it's a long time since I my thermodynamics/heat transfer engineering papers...

Yes, surface area is good, but you generally do better with laminar flow. Turbulence would just mean that the stream of water gets "stuck" and you don't have cold water running over the surface any more.

[GNEP]

I wasn't actually referring to surface area but increased turbulence being good - as I said I have very hazy memories. Would flow ever really be laminar in a layout like that with normal flowrates for a water cooling system?

[WayneHu]

Although the well-designed water-cooling block performs better, but the robustness of the whole system might not be so good if it is used in 24hr online system. The chipset might get burned if the cooling system does not work and the chip itself is unable to shutdown all functions before being damaged forever.

In addition, the water or moisture is not good for the electric components. The better design should use the alternative unconductible liquid instead of water.

Anyway, the best heat-spreading and most ridiculous system is to put everything covered by the mineral oil, isn't it?

[RedRed]

It really is a lovely thing.

Can I as a silly question?

why do you have the solid block at the top, with the sandwich at the bottom?

I take it that the sandwich end (the flat, calked panel) is actually flat?

I was wondering if it would be simpler to engineer (though possibly not as cool looking ) if it were on top.....

That would allow some of your components to be made of Perspex (or something even lighter).....

Regards
RedRed

[Skee^]

The flow in my system aint hindered by the Parhelia card, im having a ½" system and to the point after the CPU i have a splitter that splits it into 5 components as NB,HDD,DPS2,PSU and Vga and said the Parhelia aint some FX5900 heat generator.

as long as flow is on there is no danger for overheating.

[Helevitia]

Very nice design! Thanks for sharing it with us Skee and BladeRunner

[Skee^]

its a pleasure. i wonder what the ppl over at Matrox thikns of it

[WyWyWyWy]

Hello Skee^ and BladeRunner
I'm just to say Hi ere, to let you both know that I still admire you guys' work... oh the glorius watercooled PSU and 1in 4out CPU block!

Plus, I check ProCooling daily to see what you guys are doing!

P.S. BladeRunner, I haven't got your email yet, but I got some long copper slab already, thanks!

[Pace]

Originally posted by crossbonesx
At the end of this term I'll design one for haig and you can ask him what he thinks. Then if he likes it, I'll send you the RTV mold.

Cool, look forward to seeing it

[Dilitante1]

any progress? was an interresting idea

[spadnos]

Maybe soon (not SoonTM)

Actually, I'm looking into making some custom waterblock designs. There was a (crappy) roving tool sale that just came through here, and they had fairly cheap milling machines.

That got me thinking about these things again.

I've been searching around for better quality milling machines (there's one near you, Dilitante1), and making a CNC out of it.

I have also been thinking of other designs (though BladeRunner's splitter X is a work of art) - for CPU , Video, and other things (I may even be able to make a DIMM cooler )

Also, I've thought of things like using clear tops (Lexan or acrylic), and building in things like temperature sensors and LEDs.

I also have an idea for getting a pretty good polish like BladeRunner's stuff, only without spending a ton of time on each piece.

I just need to be able to justify spending $2000-$4000 on production machinery.

What would you pay for something like this? (maybe I should make a poll?)

- Steve

[Dilitante1]

do tell, how close to me (link?)
could be a good investment for several hobbies 8P

the scary part about the tool shows is the unit pushed as a mill is just a heavy drill press, the bearings in it arent designed for for the forces involved in milling. =\

as for what to pay scan ebay to see what typical prices run on used stuff, then you can talk to local shops that deal in used machine shop machinery. If i had a garage i'd have scooped a J head bridgeport years ago with a digital readout, and a rotary table. Could have been doing head work for cars and prototype testing for a fun

[spadnos]

I'm not sure where you are in NH, but this machine is in Bow (next to Concord).

I'm not sure I should tell you what the EBay item number is - I might want the machine

OK. here it is. Don't bid against me .

The machines are going for around $2500-$4k, depending on features. This one has a bunch of tooling (including quick-change tool holders), and looks like it's in good shape.

Talking to a friend of mine who has two Bridgeports, if you want CNC in the future, you're WAY better off getting something that used to be motorized and is in bad shape than getting a manual unit that's in good shape. Apparently the ballscrews for a Bridgeport are around $1500-$2000 for a set, and getting the quill to be under CNC is a nightmare. (hundreds of hours of effort)

So, a manual machine is in the $2000-$3000 range (if you throw in some tooling and work holders), and add a thousand or two for CNC.

- Steve

edit: response to the other part of the post

[Dilitante1]

cool i was browsing and saw that one

you might want to look around at the local shops
http://www.machinetools.com/ search by state etc...might find some goodies i am a short drive from Brentwood machine sales and they have tons of stuff in house.

good luck tho, my budget (and lack of a garage) prevent me from having any toys like this =\

good luck tho